Feb. 24 – Cusco to Aguascalientes
We are up at 5:00 AM, put our extra stuff in storage with the hotel, and hail a cab to the train station. We get our tickets and have some coca tea and a sandwich while we wait to board the train.
The Peruvian train system is an experience. The train was very nice, and comfortable, and started out on time. But after just a few minutes, we were suddenly stopped, and then the train backed up for what seemed most of the way we had gone, then waited a while, and then pulled forward on a different track. Then it stopped again, backed up again, and then moved forward on still another track!
Eventually we made progress, and moved through the Peruvian countryside, following a raging, white-water river. We passed a few villages, and stopped several move times, and backed up several more times, for unknown reasons. The ride was bumpy and jostling, but not uncomfortable. The train car had a good bathroom and even had food and beverage service. The train track ran though a fantastically scenic river valley, with the raging river alongside, and steep mountains on both sides. Soon the roads and farms disappeared, and the valley became steeper and more rugged. Very beautiful. There were many scattered buildings; first red adobe, then gray adobe. Ancient terraces and ruins were visible here and there along the route. The vegetation soon became lush jungle. When the road ended, the trees began, and soon the mountainsides were forested. I enjoyed the train ride immensely, and spent the entire four hours just watching the scenery go by the window. Fantastic!
We arrived at the Machu-Picchu village, Aguascalientes, almost on time. It is a totally artificial place, built just for tourists coming to the ruin site. All new buildings and streets, no cars, nothing here but restaurants, hotels, internet cafes, and gift and coffee shops. There was a large craft market adjacent to the train station. Very funny place. There were lots of Peruvians making a living selling stuff to the tourists, but all very controlled and regulated. All that said, the village was in a beautiful spot, nestled between mountains and at the confluence of three raging rivers. The sound of the rushing water was everywhere you went.
We found a very reasonable hotel, and caught up on email and blogging. It rained on and off all afternoon, sometimes very heavy. We walked up the hill to the hot-water baths that give the area is name, and soaked in the warm water bathes until we were well wrinkled. We bought or bus tickets to the ruin site for the morning, and went to bed early, for another 5:00 wake up call.